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May 15 2020

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No middle seam

It sure would be nice if the front of the mask was a single piece of fabric without a middle seam. This would allow for much larger patterns and customized placement of design elements.

Sounds like a fun project. Better get one of my cats involved.

I cut out the two inside pieces and sewed them and the nose bendy into a single piece. I then pinned the outside fabric to the piece and cut around the edges.

The new “single front” pattern is quite a bit larger to accommodate for the deflection in front of the mouth.

NOTE: I didn’t get it quite right but I feel this is a good road to travel down. I sewed the front piece a little too close the the back which them acted to push the entire mask against my mouth. It’s possible that the pattern I chose is too small. I will need to experiment more.

Permanent link to this article: http://lbhsound.com/wp/no-middle-seam/

1 comment

  1. Beth E.

    06/11/20 RESPONSE: One-piece with no stitching holes for Covid-19 to go through, modified to be larger, 3 layers, nose wire:
    This pattern is rarely seen on the internet. https://diyjoy.com/sew-a-barrier-mask/
    I personally modified template to look a bit like a teapot.
    OUTER FABRIC TEMPLATE: 1) My measurements do include 1/4″ seam allowance at the bottom (fold eliminated) so different fabrics for outer and lining can be sewn. 2) My pattern template starts with rectangle 9.25″ x 8″ with angled corners, each starting 2″ from each corner. 3) After the corners are cut away, THEN I add 3/4″ wide flange panel to each straight side to make generous channels for elastics/ties. Note 1: Flange bottom/top continues the corners’ angled lines, making channels less bulky when later turned inward. Note 2: Template is now 10.75″ wide (was 9.25″ wide before adding 3/4″ wide flange on each side). 4) I make template “taller” (was 8″ high, including 0.25″ seam allowance at the bottom) BY ADDING 5″ wide, centered, 1″ high swoop along the top line (was originally flat) to accommodate nose better. Note: Template in now 9″ tall in total.
    FOR LINING AND MIDDLE LAYER TEMPLATE: 5) Cut lining and middle layer WITHOUT SIDE FLANGES–to reduce bulk on sides when rolling outer layer sides inward to make channels (I cut high quality cotton sheets to make lining and middle).
    SEW: 6) Layer in order on flat surface: Outer UP, Lining DOWN, Middle–not seen so either way. 7) Sew 0.25″ seams along top and bottom, skipping sides. 8) Trim top curve with pinking shears or clip before turning right side out through either small side opening with fingers between outer and lining fabric. Iron flat (flat metal frosting spatula pushed against seams inside helps here). 9) Top stitch close to edge on top and bottom, skipping sides.
    NOSE WIRE: 10) Bend ends of a 4.75″ wire about 1/4″ under and bend into gentle curve with bent ends upward. Place inside next to outer layer, bent ends still up, centered under top curve and pushed up against it (nose is cushioned by other 2 fabric layers) Note: I used thinner rubber-covered copper electrical wire, but whatever works. 11) With wire corralled by pins and zipper presser foot just for this, slowly stitch down one side of wire and across to other end of wire and back up to top (or create channel and slide wire in).
    CHANNELS: 12) Fold bottom seam up toward lining; next, top curve down so folded fabric is 2.75″ high and V-shape at each side appears symmetrical. Press and pin. 13) Zigzag or serge unfinished side flanges and turn under scant 1/4″ toward lining and topstitch. 14) Turn flanges inward a second time 0.5″, still showing some of angled V, and stitch hem in fold to create channels.
    POP OUT: 15) Fold top curve back up a little over half way and press; fold bottom seam back down half way and press (up to about 1/4″ between ironed folds in middle) 16) Tricky part to create deep mask, with pins ready, for each of four angled corners, tug deeply folded angled seam so it nests tightly up against channel (including the folded part which tries to twist away). Pin (bottom seam will be about even with edge and top curve will extend a bit beyond). Stitch next to the channel along the angled corners already tugged into place.
    INFO: Looking over diyjoy web instructions, I make my last foldbacks deeper so they almost touch their folds in the middle, so they are deeper for European faces. Wearers tell me it is very comfortable, bigger than it appears when not stretched out; slight Darth Vader appearance as one breathes through fabric with very little leakage. Some angle adjustment may be needed to make pop out easier.

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